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Administrator
ZR Exhaust Surround
2009.02.28 17:54:09
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Requirements:

MG Heat Sheild (£5.99) and Bolts (approx. £2)

Step 1: Prepare and add protective tape to surround
Step 2: Place surround and bolt in place

Exhaust surround can be brought from your local dealer



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Administrator
ZR Sony H\U Install
2009.02.28 17:52:32
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Requirements:

Sony CDX-M700R

Step 1: Remove old head unit, remove old internal cage, Insert new internal cage (for sony) and clip into place.

Connect cable required to your H\U

Note: MG uses the standard ISO for connecting H\U to the car, if unit brought does not support this connector you will require an adapter (sony supports ISO), also some high end units like some Alpines require seperate power from the Car battery (for infomation on how to get the power from the battery to the inside of the car please see Boot Install)

Step 2: Slide unit into cage and fix into place
Step 3: Test head unit

H\U's can be brought from Halfords or your local car audio shop



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Administrator
ZR Gear Surround
2009.02.28 17:50:53
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Requirements:

Simoni Racing gear surround

Step 1: Place gear surround around the gear stick and screw into place

Gear Surrounds can be brought from Halfords or search on google



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Administrator
ZR K&N Performace Filter
2009.02.28 17:46:41
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Step 1: Open bonnet and locate filter box
.
Step 2: Unclip box and remove lid

 

Step 3: Remore exsisting Mg filter (PHE 100380)
.
Step 4: Place in K&N filter (33-2647)
.
Step 5: Clip filter box back into place
Step 6: Close bonnet and start the engine (hmmmmmmm)

Replacement filters can be brought from Halfords or K&N on 01925 636950



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Administrator
ZR Neon Grill Install
2009.02.28 17:45:45
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Required Components:

15" neon (KoolGlo Accent Tube - M/N SA-151 - avalible from neoquip), Remote control (from GBdriver), zip ties

Step 1: Open bonnet and fuse box
Step 2: place switch (provided with neon) on to the mains power
Step 3: Fix switch cable to the red cable on the remote box
.
Step 4: fix black cable from the remote box to the '-' part on the battery (this is where the other black cables are situated)
.
Step 5: Zip tie remote box to where the EPU is situated
Step 6: Place 2 zip ties to the top part of the botton grill (to do this push plastic flap near to the radiator towards the grill and then place using your hands
Step 7: Push the spare power cable (provided with the neon) though in to the grill area and then though to the other side (flap side) and then fix cable to the neon cable
Step 8: Place silicon around the ends of the tude then push the Neon tude though the flap near to the radiator and then zip tie on.
Step 9: the cable from the neon fix to the yellow cables on the remote box (for more information see diagram provided in the package)
Step 10: push all of the cable though to the remote box and zip tie to the zip tie on the remote box

Step: 11: Test neon and make sure that it switches on by using the remote
 

Troubleshooting:

Problem 1: Neon doesn't switch on

Resolution 1: Make sure that the remote is grounded. Try switching the neon on by standing closer to it

Problem 2: Remote distance is ver short

Resolution 2: Move ariel to be inside the car

 

Site Created by www.Webworks2.co.uk



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Administrator
ZR Boot Install
2009.02.28 17:43:36

Equipment:

2x MDF sheets (from B&Q), 2x2x3m length of wood (from B&Q), AMP (Sony 1002 and JL e2150) , Sub (Sony XPlod 8" 350w RMS), CD Changer (Sony CDX-616 10 Disc Changer), AudioLeads starter kit (incs, Power cable, speaker cable, remote switch cable and phono cable), 4awg AudioLeads (G3-18), AudioLeads Power Splitter (G9-10), 2x9" neon light (KoolGlo Slim Accent Tubes from Neoquip)

Cable Installation

Step 1: Unpack cables

Step 2: Open bonnet

Step3: Locate Battery - (*1)

Step 4: place the power cable on the Battery (make sure engine is off and disconnect battery negative terminal) - (*2).

Step 5: Locate rubber grommet nearest the passenger side (as shown in the picture) and remove

Step 6: make a hole in the rubber and feed the cable through

Step 7: push cable though and locate from the inside of the cabin (as shown in the picture) - this is really tricky (cables will appear above the displayed hole and requires you to fish around with you fingers and pull the cable though)
Step 7a: Place required audio cable in Head unit

Step 8: remove car seal from door (passenger side)

Step 9: lay cable inside the seal gap (As shown in the picture)

Step 10: Place seal back to the door
Step 11: push cable through the back side of the rear seats and pull cable though to boot
Step 12: repeat steps 8-9 (drive side) for the Audio cables and remote lead (this is also a good stage to install the CD changer cables or cables required for other ICE stuff) then complete with steps 10-11

Sub box Creation

Step 1: Mark Cube Diagram on the MDF that fits the sub (dimensions should be found with the paper work of the sub and should be followed)

Step 2: Cut out wood and cut a hold in one of the pieces to fit the sub

Step 3: Fix sub to the piece of wood that contains the hole for the sub.

Step 4: Fit speaker cable to the sub

Step 5: Screw all piece together and seal each edge to create a cube (make sure to cut a small corner out of one of the pieces of wood so that a speaker cable can be pulled though to link to the AMP and then seal back with sealant or drill a hole and seal)

Fake Boot Floor Creation

Step 1: Remove boot carpet (grab the front and pull up and out)

Step 2: place carpet on top of one of the MDF Sheets and then draw around.

Step 3: cut out the sheet and then check to see if it fits the boot (I will guarantee that it won't). If it doesn't mark sheet where it meets the boot interior and cut again until it fits
Step 3a: Once happy with the shape use this as a template for the second sheet. then cut out the second half.
Step 3b: Cut out desired shapes in floor

Step 4: cut the 2x2 wood to fit the edge of the MDF (wood width to be higher than the AMP being installed) and place a length in the middle and fix once complete place the fake floor in the boot.

Step 4a: Then place the AMP(s) on the MDF and fix - I also suggest cutting out underneath the AMPs to allow them to breathe better (fans may also be required)

Step 5: Place bottom boot install in the boot
Step 5a: As a dry test place both sheets of MDF on top of the existing MDF to complete the floor and make sure that all fits (then remove the new floor top if you are to install neons or move to step 7)

Neon power install (If Required)

Step 6a: cut cigarette lighter adapter off the transformer

Step 6b: Build one of these Relays and then place the white cable on the remote connector to the relay box and then place the Earth to the car chassis - this will mean that the neon's will switch on when the AMP is on - OR you can also connect the neon to the boot interior light so that the switch on when the boot is open (you will also need to build this relay box as well- the latter is recommended

Step 6c: fix transformer to fake floor and then connect the neon's and fit near amp or other desired location.

Fake Boot Floor Creation Cont.

Step 7a: fix 4awg power to splitter and then place 12 or 8 awg from splitter to AMPs

 

Step 7b: Fix power, remote switch and earth cable to the AMP's (Sony 1002-HX and JL e2150) - remote cable can be cascaded were as earth and live can not
Step 8: Place Audio cable on the AMPs
Step 9: Fix AMP earth cables to car body work (suggest location under rear left speaker or seat fixing point) remember remove the paint before connecting or you will have problems with the AMP cutting out! - Important AMPs earths must be at the same point

Step 10: Cut carpet to fit new MDF floor plus making sure to leave a gap around the edges to hide the spaces left by the fake floor

Step 11: Cut holes in Carpet for where the AMP and sub is to be installed

Step 12: Place Carpet in boot
Step 13: Place Sub box in the Sub hole
Step 14: Place CD Changer on top of carpet and fix
Step 15a: Make sure all is in place and working
Step 15b: Test when dark to make sure the neon's work

Troubleshooting:

Issue 1: AMP keeps turning off or the sub isn't working

Resolution 1: Make sure the the AMP is earthed, and speaker cable are fixed correctly

Issue 2: Neon Lights are not working

Resolution 2: Make sure the Stereo is on, Make sure the cable is connected correctly to the AMP

Issue 3: CD Changer isn't working

Resolution 3: Make sure the audio cables to the CD changer and H\U are connected and the power\remote lead is connected at both ends

Remarks *1 - It is reommend that power is taken directly from the car battery and not from the cars fuse box as it could cause a fire.

Remarks *2 - With 2 or more amps you need at the least 4awg with 80amp fuse no more than 18” from the positive terminal of your battery. Then wire this in to a two way fused splitter with 8awg or 12awg with 40amp fuses then in to your amps. Each amp MUST use the same size cable for the earth and MUST be earthed at the same point in the car.

'If you don't feel comfortable in doing this I suggest that you find a Car Audio Installer to do it for you'



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Administrator
ZR Door Speaker Install
2009.02.28 17:42:13
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Requirements:

17cm speakers and 2.5cm tweeters (Infinity Refrence 605cs 90w RMS) , Sheet of MDF 18mm deep, speaker cable and clips (autoleads and halfords), Dynamat

Step 1: Open Door

Step 2: Remove plastic cover door handle and remove the 3 screws then remove the botton screw (door pocket) in the door
Step 3: Remove Interior door panel by pulling the bottom (brut force is required to get off as it is fixed by several plastic clips) then lifting the top of the door over the lock and then sliding out
Step 4: Unscrew and unclip the speakers from the door
Step 5: Modify the tweeter so that it fits into the tweeter hole on the Interior door panel and then super glue in place
Step 6: Now fit the crossover box to the Interior door cover by using super glue - The cross over should fit near to the tweeter
Step 7: Attach the tweeter cable, stereo speaker cable and the mid speaker cable to the crossover
Step 8: Build a MDF fixing plate for the speaker (make sure the depth of the MDF is 5mm or you will have to modify the corner closes to the door as shown in the picture) - the way I did this was to use the exsisting speaker and draw around it on the MDF and then cut it out - others have used the exsisting speaker plate by knocking out the old rover speaker
Step 9: Place dynamat on both sides of the MDF
Step 10: fix speaker to MDF (or plastic surround) then feed cable from crossover to the speaker then fix to door
Step 11: Once speaker is wired up test speakers to make sure that they are working
Step 12: remove from Interior door panel lock pin cover
Step 13: Slide Interior door panel into the corner of the door then slid over the top of the lock and fix into place
Step 14: Place lock pin cover over the lock and push back into place
Step 15: run though setps 1 - 14 for the other door and then test

Speakers can be brought from Halfords or your local car audio shop



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Administrator
Colt Boot Install
2009.02.28 17:40:52

Parts Used:

2x MDF sheets (from B&Q), 2x2x3m length of wood (from B&Q), AMP (Sony 1002 and JL e2150) , Sub (Sony XPlod 8" 350w RMS), CD Changer (Sony CDX-616 10 Disc Changer), AudioLeads starter kit (incs, Power cable, speaker cable, remote switch cable and phono cable), 2x9" neon light (KoolGlo Slim Accent Tubes from Neoquip)

Fake Boot floor install | Battery Wiring Up | Head Unit Install | Cabling Installation | Finishing Touches | Power Up

Ideas

Fake Boot floor install:

Remove Carpet and wheel cover from the boot

Draw around wheel cover on new MDF to create a new floor base used to mount the AMPs etc.
Cut out board and cut out breather holes for where the AMPs lay in your design (this helps with heat dispersion and weight)
Fix AMPs and Power cable splitter *1 to the floor base
Sub Creation step-by-step Information can be found here, however we would recommend that you follow the manufactures guidelines
Fix raisers to MDF making sure that they are slightly higher than the AMPs you are using
Fix raisers at the points that will support the top base of the floor
Place into boot and make sure that it fits and removes without any problems

Take MDF top sheet


Place carpet from boot onto MDF sheet and draw around

 

Cut out top sheet

Slice top sheet in half and create holes for sub and viewing points (if required)

Place into boot and make sure that the sheet fits. It might take several tweeks until it will fit

If you have cut a viewing hold I would check to make sure that the perspex fits

Place both sheets in and make sure that they fit in the boot

Place Sub and CD-Changer into place and tweek until it fits

Battery Wiring Up:

Remove negative terminal from battery (Black) before doing any wiring *1

Fix live cable to the following point on the battery

Fit fuse holder to car using zip ties

Find this point at the passanger foot well - make hole through gromet - push a scrape cable through and attach to live wire and pull through
This is the point where the cable goes through from the bonnet

Head Unit (H/U)Install:

Remove existing head unit (refer to car manual) unclip H/U metal fixing plate.

Place H/U fixing plate for your stereo

Remove dash so that you can get to the cables easier
Add additional cables (AMP's, CD-Changer etc.) if required
Pull cables through and place dash back into place
Place cables into the back of the head unit - Ignition and start point power may need crossing or joining on the ISO connector - refer to Headunit documentation and car manual
Slide Head unit into place and test.

Cabling Installation:

Pull back passanger and Driver carpet and start to lay cables underneath

Remove plastic seal from driver and passanger sides
Just pull until it unclips
Pull back carpet
Lay cables between the carpet and chassis on both sides - it's suggested to not lay the audio cables near to the power cables (Change controller, Live wire, AMP remote cable)
Unclip rear seat as shown - there are 2 clips equally apart that need to be removed
Remove seat base
Pull cables through
Once through push to boot (under back of seat)
Pull through into boot - neons can now be added at this point - please see MG Boot for more details

Finishing Touches:

Push carpet, seals and seats back into place.

Make sure that everthing fits into boot if not trim into place
Lay and fix carpet onto top of floor.
Trim and place into boot. You may also want to implement a FAN system to move the heat away from the AMP's - Suggest using 12V PC FANs and making a relay unit to power them

Power Up:

Place earth back onto battery *1

Test equipment and make sure all works - if you have any problems please refer to the FAQ's
Random Pictures

Remarks *1 - With 2 amps you need at the least 4awg with 80amp fuse no more than 18” from the positive terminal of your battery. Then wire this in to a two way fused splitter with 8awg or 12awg with 40amp fuses then in to your amps. Each amp MUST use the same size cable for the earth as used for live and MUST be earthed at the same point in the car.

'If you don't feel comfortable in doing this I suggest that you find a Car Audio Installer to do it for you'



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Administrator
Colt Door Speakers
2009.02.28 15:57:47
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Requirements:

16.5cm speakers and 2.5cm tweeters (Infinity Reference 6500cs 90w RMS) , Sheet of MDF 10mm deep, speaker cable and clips (autoleads and halfords),

Bigger pictures availablehere

Step 1: Open Door

Step 2: Remove screw from door handle and then remove
Step 3: Remove connector from handle by pushing the white clip in and then release.
Step 4: On the door card remove plastic cap and then remove screw
Step 5: Remove the screw from the door lock then remove plastic surround
Step 6: Now pull the door card off (I found starting at the bottom where the speaker is was best)
Step 7: Now unscrew the speaker (not the plastic holder)
Step 8: Unclip the speaker cable
Step 9: Now remove the plastic holder from the door
Step 10: Use the plastic holder to mark out new speaker holder using MDF
Step 11: Cut out speaker holder (speaker hole may require tweaking)
Step 12: Mount new speaker to MDF holder
Tweeters
Step 13: Place tweeter holder plastic corner on the door where they will be mounted and mark drill holes
Step 14: Remove plastic corner from door (just need to pull this off)
 Step 15: Drill out screw holes and hole for the speaker cable
Step 16: Mount tweeters
Step 17: Place back onto door
 
Component System
Step 18: Remove the lid from the unit by squeezing the sides
Step 19: Cut out shape to fit Component unit with a 3x3cm tongue
Step 20: Add a 1.5x1.5cm lip
Step 21: Screw component to component mount
Fixing together
Step 22: Fix component system into the hole above the speaker. There should be one screw hole to the left of the door. Placing the component holder behind the door should reach this hold for fixing
Step 23: Connect the speaker main feed to the component
Step 24: Connect the tweeter to the component system (I used the -3db point)
Step 25: Connect woofer to component then fix into door
Step 26: Test the system
Step 27: Place door card back onto door then screw into place
 
Repeat the above for the other door

Speakers can be brought from Halfords or your local car audio shop



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Administrator
ICE Advice
2009.02.28 15:57:07

 

1. Power Rate of speakers

When buying speakers you need to be careful that you are looking at the correct power rating. When going into places like Halfords or the internet you might find some speakers that state that the are 130W (at £50) - what they are not telling you is that the 100W is rated using PMPO which in fact is about 30W RMS which is a lower wattage than the ones in your car already!

When buying speakers make sure that the wattage shown is RMS and not PMPO

good 95W RMS speakers are about £100.

2. AMPing the Speakers or using the Head Unit Power

Now that you have bought the higher wattage speakers you might find that they don't give you the expected clarity and punch this will be because the Head unit that you have wired the speakers into is unable to keep up with the speaker power.

To improve this you will need to look at installing an AMP that is able to power the speakers (It might be worth buying the AMP to be able to power more the wattage of the speakers)


4. Music being played though the unit

The next factor to look at is the type of music in this case not Rock, Pop, Classic but instead minidisc, tape, mp3, CD, DVD.

For example: When playing an MP3 though your new powerful speakers you will probably get distortation - this is not because of the speakers but instead the MP3 (compression) however playing the same song that is on a CD (WAV) the clarity is then improved

3. Other Factors:

Wires - don't buy cheap as this will also effect the clarity.
Position of speakers - make sure that they are at the right height (this is not all ways possible)

Head Unit, AMP - are other things to look at.

For more information please see www.tcar.co.uk and http://www.xpower-mg.com/forum/show...=&threadid=2899 or your local ICE Dealer



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Administrator
Questions and Answers ICE
2009.02.28 15:53:37

 

Issue 1: AMP's on but there is no sound.

Resolution 1: Could be due to one or more of the following:

i) AMP could be receiving the wrong voltage - You must make sure that the AMP is receiving 12V unless stated, a common cause for receiving the wrong voltage could be due to bad connection on the earth cable i.e. Muck and car paint work - remove paint and muck and test connection.

ii) Bad connections between the AMP and speakers i.e. broken speaker cable or disconnected speaker cable.

iii) Bad connections between the Head Unit and AMP i.e. broken audio cable or cable has been disconnected.

iv) Broken Speakers or AMP - retest with another per of speakers or another AMP.

Issue 2: AMP keeps turning off or the sub isn't working.

Resolution 2: Make sure the AMP is being earthed, and speaker cable is fixed correctly.

Issue 3: Neon Lights are not working.

Resolution 3: Make sure the Stereo is on; Make sure the cable is connected correctly to the AMP or battery.

Issue 4: CD Changer isn't working.

Resolution 4: Make sure the audio cables to the CD changer and AMP are connected and the power\remote lead is connected at both ends.

Issue 5: 6x9's are drowning out the sub and the base doesn't sound correct.

Resolution 5: Switch the output of the 6x9's to be HPF between 120 and 150hz.

Issue 6: Receiving interference, crackles, popping and noise though my speakers.

Resolution 6: Could be due to one or more of the following:

i) Make sure you are using descent speakers and RCA cable's

ii) Make sure you have clean earthing to and from your AMP and that the earth cable is the same gauge as the power cable connected to the AMP

iii) Make sure no power cables are near speaker or RCA wiring.

iv) Could be due to compression found on MP3's, WMA's, MD try playing an original CD.

vi) Remove un-needed cables from the back of the head unit and test (i.e. Aerial)

vii) A Noise Suppressor may be required (Local Audio Center should be able to sell you one).

viii) Speakers might be on there way out.

Issue 7: AMP Live cable fuse keeps blowing.

Resolution 7: Live power cable being used is not outputting enough power from the battery to the AMP and a higher grade cable will need to be installed.



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